Can't recall exactly where we were when we last gave an account of ourselves. We are now back in London. We want to enter some reflections on it all, and on the last bits later. But right now, just the last bit of "the story".
We left York on Wednesday 31 August. We cycled along the railway path to Selby, which is one of Sustrans' earliest paths. It runs where part of the East Coast main line used to. During this section, where it crosses the Ouse river, we had a look around. A complete maniac on a bike almost hit Katherine although the path was good and wide and she was not in his way. At Selby, the path went to the East next to the Ouse, which becomes the Humber further down, as far as a village where we had phoned a campsite. This turned out to be the outside area of a pub, where we could put our tent and this meant a nice pub meal and then we camped for nothing. We were next to the river, quite wide at this point and with boats going past.
The next day we continued to the Humber Bridge. We stopped for lunch at a place where a neolithic boat had previously been excavated. It was extraordinarily cold at that point, but probably a coincidence (with the site having had neolithic remains, that is). Then to the bridge, which is long; it was the longest in the world when built, and i think is still number 3. The usual trouble finding how to get to the cycle track, and then off to Barton on Humber on the other side. After Barton, over the Lincolnshire wolds to a campsite near market Raisen. This was all quite a long way. The wolds are hilly but not very high. n They have a wideness which is inspiring But there was plenty of up and down.
The next day, less up and down, to Lincoln and then on over the totally level fens towards Boston. It was a good sunny day and the wind was pleased with us, or one assumes that. The way down was along another old railway, but there was also a long stretch on a dead straight road that was very reminiscent of th Netherlands. Campsite near Boston, the the next day went on a walk organised to see wading birds near the Wash. This took till midday, then back to Boston, something to eat and on. Now the wind had changed its mind about us and it was distinctly heavy going. We wanted to get to Kings Lynn, but by Holbeach we were tired enough to stop anyway, although Kings Lynne seemed less and less likely. An excellent tea in Holbeach revived, the on towards Wisbech, en route to Kings Lynne. But we got lost and by the time we had untangled this and got to Wisbech, it was getting dark. Decided to continue in the dark. A local person asked if he could help us with directions, told to use the old direct road (there is a new fast one bad for cycling) which seemed appealing compared with the Sustrans twisty route. We did this. After a bit, round a corner comes a car on full beam headlights, going the other way. For a second, total blindness, just black with the blinding headlights. Brake hard. Katherine gets a broken brake cable, so subsequent progress has to be much slower. Saw a campsite sign on the road, which we did not know about. Went there, not yet to Kings Lynne.
Next day, Sunday 4 September, up early, brake repairs then to Kings Lynne. Bad mistake on the way, but got there. Through the town and on. We were invited to lunch by some friends, Marion and Brian, in a village called Docking further on. Katherine went into pessimist mode that we could not possibly be there on time. We were. The weather was fine in the morning but it came on the rain strongly in the afternoon. We were going to continue, but they kindly invited us to stay the night. Next day, on the Burnham Market for posh coffee and exceptionally good food from butcher and baker. On to Walsingham, where we visited both the Anglican and the Catholic shrines, having afternoon tea in both. Now thoroughly late, but on towards Norwich. When it was getting dark, and we were not in Norwich, asked an a pub about camp sites. Directed to what turned out to be an outdoor centre for schools, but no schools there at the time and when we did find someone he showed us the camping field and said it was OK to use it.
It rained seriously the next morning. But up and on. From here, the route to Norwich was a well-maintained track along a former railway. Stopped in Norwich for lunch and then on. Route was close to Norfolk Broads, to Beccles, where it was on the third try that we found an open cafe, and this was a posh joint with outstanding cake. Also chatted with some people from Manningtree (near Harwich) who offered us accommodation on our way.
After this, we cycled as far as Haleworth then sought somewhere to stay. We knew there was no campsite, but there seemed nothing else either. We were told that Sizewell nuclear power station was having it annual shut-down and the area filled up with all sorts of experts when they do this and all rooms were taken. Seemed surprising, but it was so. In the main hotel, they offered us floor space in a spacious and tidy attic room, at half price and we took it. Had a bar meal and witnessed the entirely non-violent ejection of four extremely drunk men; most impressive.
Then, next day, on towards Ipswich and Manningtree. By now it was very windy, but not directly against us. Not too much to say about this bit of the route. We got confused as to what was Sustrans 1 and what was not, but we had to depart from whatever route it was, anyway, to save time. From Ipswich to Manningtree, on noticeably more busy roads, but not too bad. Got to our new friends, Margaret and Dennis in good time and they were most welcoming.
Next day was the last. Harwich was not far away. We left a bit before lunch time, had a rather good pub lunch in an establishment on the way called the Fat Goose, and got to our B&B in Harwich in good time. Good dinner in the Pier restaurant, wander round old Harwich, which has considerable charm and historical significance; one interesting fact is that the Mayflower was built in Harwich. Finally, on the next day, Friday 9 Sept, cycled to Harwich International railway station and got on a train to London.
Now we are at home and having a lot of difficulty in doing much, so so far we haven't - done much, that is - but we did go to see Toulouse Lautrec in the Courtauld gallery earlier today. There was a lot of mail waiting for our attention.
Tuesday, September 13, 2011
Tuesday, September 6, 2011
The end in sight
A lot has happened since the last entry which we will come back to but this bit is an update on where we are now. Then we will go back and fill in. We began this ride at the beginning of May by taking the boat from Harwich to Holland. We left beautiful sunshine in London and were greeted with a blast of cold wind in Harwich,
For all this ride, things have been largely dominated by depressions over the North Sea, which are now at their most. A few days ago the wind began to blow strongly from the south. We are going south. We crossed the fens from Boston with the wind against us. Once we turned a corner and had it behind for a couple of miles. It was an exhilarating experience to speed a long with very little effort and just admire the beauty of the open landscape. The rest of the time there was less space for admiring beauty. On Sunday the rain began. On Monday we phoned Felixtowe Ferries to book a crossing to Harwich and were told that the stormy weather would continue all week and there would be no ferries. This meant an extra day of cycling to go via Colchester.
We have now booked a B&B for Thursday night in Harwich and a table for 7.30 pm at the Pier Hotel for a celebratory meal. Do join us.
We began with the strong, cold wind in Harwich, We will end with a strong, wet wind in Harwich and then take the train home. Cycling from Harwich to London is not part of this journey! That's for another time.
For all this ride, things have been largely dominated by depressions over the North Sea, which are now at their most. A few days ago the wind began to blow strongly from the south. We are going south. We crossed the fens from Boston with the wind against us. Once we turned a corner and had it behind for a couple of miles. It was an exhilarating experience to speed a long with very little effort and just admire the beauty of the open landscape. The rest of the time there was less space for admiring beauty. On Sunday the rain began. On Monday we phoned Felixtowe Ferries to book a crossing to Harwich and were told that the stormy weather would continue all week and there would be no ferries. This meant an extra day of cycling to go via Colchester.
We have now booked a B&B for Thursday night in Harwich and a table for 7.30 pm at the Pier Hotel for a celebratory meal. Do join us.
We began with the strong, cold wind in Harwich, We will end with a strong, wet wind in Harwich and then take the train home. Cycling from Harwich to London is not part of this journey! That's for another time.
Wednesday, August 31, 2011
Leaving York
We were supposed to leave York on Tuesday morning. It is now 2.20 pm on Wednesday afternoon and we must go. The problem is relaxing in a home environment. It rained yesterday afternoon so I was quite glad we hadn't gone.
An addition to Tom's entry on Stamford Bridge, the excellent cake and hot chocolate was in a florist's shop and the florist was very tolerant of two dripping cyclists, so a very pleasant environment and altogether recommended
We hope to get to Harwich, the end of the journey, next Wednesday or Thursay and probably have an expensive meal in the Pier Hotel, stay the night in a cheaper hotel and return to London by train. If you would like to join us for a celebratory meal let us know and we will try and get definite about our arrival plans. So much though depends on the weather, not to mention closed camp sites.
An addition to Tom's entry on Stamford Bridge, the excellent cake and hot chocolate was in a florist's shop and the florist was very tolerant of two dripping cyclists, so a very pleasant environment and altogether recommended
We hope to get to Harwich, the end of the journey, next Wednesday or Thursay and probably have an expensive meal in the Pier Hotel, stay the night in a cheaper hotel and return to London by train. If you would like to join us for a celebratory meal let us know and we will try and get definite about our arrival plans. So much though depends on the weather, not to mention closed camp sites.
Sunday, August 28, 2011
Saturday, August 27, 2011
Yorkshire, to York
In my last post, I made a spelling mistake I often make, that we were not about to go along the North Yorkshire coast, when we were actually "now" about to do just that.
Well, we left the Stockton camp site and went through Stockton towards the Transporter Bridge over the Tees. This was along main roads to start with, but all with excellent cycle tracks, almost like Holland. It got less "wonderful" after a while and an ordinary road towards the bridge, but was fine. We had packed up a parcel for used maps etc before leaving, and saw a post office along the way, so went to post it home. There was also a cafe, and we had a late breakfast that was (a) cheap and (b) extremely well cooked. Then on to the bridge. May try later to put up a photo of this; have been lean on images recently. But it is a wonderful contraption, consisting of a high horizontal structure with a sort-of trolley running along; below this trolley hangs a platform on cables; the trolley runs from one side of the river to the other and the platform goes too, carrying up to 12 cars and bikes, pedestrians, etc. It was built that way to get a river crossing that allows ships to go through, but without vehicles and pedestrians that are crossing to have to go up high.
After the transporter bridge, a long cycle past vast steelworks and chemical works, to Redcar and then mainly along the coast to Saltburn by-the-Sea. We stopped here for refreshment and the energy this gives was sorely needed for the climb that followed. We though that serious climbing was behind us after Norway and Scotland, but not so. Up and up, ultimately to 158 metres high, and that was by-passing a descent to sea level in the middle of the climb, at Loftus. In the second part of this, it started to rain seriously from low cloud, so that at the top we were in the cloud and also being rained on, and soaked. Gouing down after this was a little perilous but all was well, and into the higher part of Staithes. Looked to a place for the night; Far to wet for camping! Stopped by a pub, the "Captain Cook" where the landlord saw us outside and straight away said we would need a warm room, and had one left. Reasonable price, excellent supper and a good range of beers.
Next day, walked down to Staithes village, a very steep descent that the "official" cycle route would have sent us down, something like a 30% gradient. The village is of the sort on calendars etc, very picturesque. Then on to Whitby, on the main road, that also gave us a 25% gradient - down, but one had to be pretty careful! Whitby was pretty solid with people, but we got to buy the next map we needed and have tea and find the bike shop closed. We then continued along a converted railway, called th "cinder track" towards Scarborough. Started over a high viaduct, it then climbed and descended to the village above Robin Hoods Bay, then a serious climb to a bit more than 200 metres, at Ravenscar, before going down to Scarborough. Met people along the way, and quite a long chat about cycle holidays. Through Scarborough, but getting late now. Got to a campsite near Cayton, South of Scarborough where the warden was not at all helpful and said we were too late, then to a large holiday centre that had camping and was fine, if expensive.
Next day, on to a relative of Katherine's, where we had a long chat and a nice lunch. The day had started very wet, but cleared up, and when we left in the afternoon, it was fine. Cycled about another 25 km through Driffield to a very pleasant campsite in the country. This was a glorious ride over the edge to the Yorkshire wolds, with wonderful light and visibility.
Next day did not have wonderful visibility. It was one the few days in the whole of our journey when it has rained all day. We set off for York, over the main part of the Yorkshire wolds, in continuous light rain and almost in the clouds. The highest point was about 190 metres high, before a descent to the vale of York, and the town of Pocklington. Made a mistake on the way down, so missed a village with a much better pub (we think) and had a more ordinary pub lunch in Pocklington. Then on, in heavier rain, to Stamford Bridge where Harold of England defeated Harald of Norway in 1066 (before his forced march to the South Coast and defeat by William the bastard, or rather conqueror). The need for coffee and cake was met here, and finally to York, to Susannah (our daughter) and Dave and their children; on this section of the route, in pouring rain some was on narrow paths through fields, the rest took us through York suburbia about half way, then no further way-marking at all. Got guidance from people we asked and got to the millenium bridge over the river Ouse. On from there to their house. When we arrived, we were cold and deeply wet, but we did arrive - this was yesterday - and are here until Tuesday 30 August.
Well, we left the Stockton camp site and went through Stockton towards the Transporter Bridge over the Tees. This was along main roads to start with, but all with excellent cycle tracks, almost like Holland. It got less "wonderful" after a while and an ordinary road towards the bridge, but was fine. We had packed up a parcel for used maps etc before leaving, and saw a post office along the way, so went to post it home. There was also a cafe, and we had a late breakfast that was (a) cheap and (b) extremely well cooked. Then on to the bridge. May try later to put up a photo of this; have been lean on images recently. But it is a wonderful contraption, consisting of a high horizontal structure with a sort-of trolley running along; below this trolley hangs a platform on cables; the trolley runs from one side of the river to the other and the platform goes too, carrying up to 12 cars and bikes, pedestrians, etc. It was built that way to get a river crossing that allows ships to go through, but without vehicles and pedestrians that are crossing to have to go up high.
After the transporter bridge, a long cycle past vast steelworks and chemical works, to Redcar and then mainly along the coast to Saltburn by-the-Sea. We stopped here for refreshment and the energy this gives was sorely needed for the climb that followed. We though that serious climbing was behind us after Norway and Scotland, but not so. Up and up, ultimately to 158 metres high, and that was by-passing a descent to sea level in the middle of the climb, at Loftus. In the second part of this, it started to rain seriously from low cloud, so that at the top we were in the cloud and also being rained on, and soaked. Gouing down after this was a little perilous but all was well, and into the higher part of Staithes. Looked to a place for the night; Far to wet for camping! Stopped by a pub, the "Captain Cook" where the landlord saw us outside and straight away said we would need a warm room, and had one left. Reasonable price, excellent supper and a good range of beers.
Next day, walked down to Staithes village, a very steep descent that the "official" cycle route would have sent us down, something like a 30% gradient. The village is of the sort on calendars etc, very picturesque. Then on to Whitby, on the main road, that also gave us a 25% gradient - down, but one had to be pretty careful! Whitby was pretty solid with people, but we got to buy the next map we needed and have tea and find the bike shop closed. We then continued along a converted railway, called th "cinder track" towards Scarborough. Started over a high viaduct, it then climbed and descended to the village above Robin Hoods Bay, then a serious climb to a bit more than 200 metres, at Ravenscar, before going down to Scarborough. Met people along the way, and quite a long chat about cycle holidays. Through Scarborough, but getting late now. Got to a campsite near Cayton, South of Scarborough where the warden was not at all helpful and said we were too late, then to a large holiday centre that had camping and was fine, if expensive.
Next day, on to a relative of Katherine's, where we had a long chat and a nice lunch. The day had started very wet, but cleared up, and when we left in the afternoon, it was fine. Cycled about another 25 km through Driffield to a very pleasant campsite in the country. This was a glorious ride over the edge to the Yorkshire wolds, with wonderful light and visibility.
Next day did not have wonderful visibility. It was one the few days in the whole of our journey when it has rained all day. We set off for York, over the main part of the Yorkshire wolds, in continuous light rain and almost in the clouds. The highest point was about 190 metres high, before a descent to the vale of York, and the town of Pocklington. Made a mistake on the way down, so missed a village with a much better pub (we think) and had a more ordinary pub lunch in Pocklington. Then on, in heavier rain, to Stamford Bridge where Harold of England defeated Harald of Norway in 1066 (before his forced march to the South Coast and defeat by William the bastard, or rather conqueror). The need for coffee and cake was met here, and finally to York, to Susannah (our daughter) and Dave and their children; on this section of the route, in pouring rain some was on narrow paths through fields, the rest took us through York suburbia about half way, then no further way-marking at all. Got guidance from people we asked and got to the millenium bridge over the river Ouse. On from there to their house. When we arrived, we were cold and deeply wet, but we did arrive - this was yesterday - and are here until Tuesday 30 August.
Monday, August 22, 2011
Another delay in reporting
Last wrote in Edinburgh; now we are in Stockton (on the River Tees) having, as before, had little internet access on the way. So here is a dead-pan list of what we have done, not spiced with humourous asides, unless they happen spontaneously.
We enjoyed our limited exposure to Edinburgh festival, and left on Monday morning a week ago. The cycle route took us through the city centre and then down a railway tunnel (well, used to be a railway tunnel, now a cycle track, with lighting) then out into the Western suburbs and round towards Dalkeith. We got truly lost in part of this process, but got sorted out and got there. Then to a camp site under an old viaduct, complete with midges and in a lovely surrounding, opposite a pub that claimed awards for their food. It was good.
Next day to Rossyln chapel. Difficulties getting there too, with a road closed on account of collapsing, but we did arrive. It comes into Dan Brown and the number of visitors bears witness to that. But the chapel is fascinating and, well, beautiful. Then on to cross the Moorfoot hills to the Tweed valley. it was a long climb, to what turned out to be the highest point on the North Sea cycle route, at 404 metres (Norway came it on 275). Descent to Innerleithen through wonderful moorland country.
We then went on down the Tweed valley towards Berwick, stopping one night en route, in Coldstream, and seeing a "stately home", Traquair House (which somehow was not stately) and Melrose Abbey. Berwick seems a nice place, to revisit, but we needed to get on. There are 3 bridges in Berwick, and we crossed on the old on (so could not see it), next to the ugly one which cut off the view of the imposing one, the railway viaduct. The ugly one really is ugly, so when you gop there make sure this is one you cross on. After Berwick, the cycle track became very rough and we walked our bikes over a couple of miles of grassland. Finally to a campsite next to a superb beach. I forgot to mention that we were now in England, in Northumberland, which is a superbly beautiful county.
We worked our way south through coastal Northumberland. At a certain point, a sharp crack signalled a spoke had gone on my (Tom's) back wheel, which immediately bucked and would no longer turn without rubbing. After some manipulation, got it going well enough, and went on. Later, in Amble, went to en excellent bike shop, which fixed it up, replaced that spoke and some other dodgy ones and re-aligned the wheel. Rural Northumberland also came up with a pub with maybe the best fish and chips we have had (the beer was fine as well). Urban Northumberland, which is probably Tyne and Wear now, came up with a beautiful campsite that the local council had let become run down and are now selling it to a holiday company who will close it down as a campsite. We had contrasted travel between industrial and lovely seaside. Through Whitley Bay, a grand resort, to the mouth of the river Tyne, where we took a ferry to South Shields and one of the best campsites we have had. Then on to Stockton, where are now, much of this on cycle paths made along old railways that are great ot cycle along; trains may go up hill, but they do not go up hill steeply!
Hope to report on the next bit soon. We are not going to go along the North Yorkshire coast to Whitby, then on the Scarborough. Expecting this bit to be very hilly, a bit like Norway was.
We enjoyed our limited exposure to Edinburgh festival, and left on Monday morning a week ago. The cycle route took us through the city centre and then down a railway tunnel (well, used to be a railway tunnel, now a cycle track, with lighting) then out into the Western suburbs and round towards Dalkeith. We got truly lost in part of this process, but got sorted out and got there. Then to a camp site under an old viaduct, complete with midges and in a lovely surrounding, opposite a pub that claimed awards for their food. It was good.
Next day to Rossyln chapel. Difficulties getting there too, with a road closed on account of collapsing, but we did arrive. It comes into Dan Brown and the number of visitors bears witness to that. But the chapel is fascinating and, well, beautiful. Then on to cross the Moorfoot hills to the Tweed valley. it was a long climb, to what turned out to be the highest point on the North Sea cycle route, at 404 metres (Norway came it on 275). Descent to Innerleithen through wonderful moorland country.
We then went on down the Tweed valley towards Berwick, stopping one night en route, in Coldstream, and seeing a "stately home", Traquair House (which somehow was not stately) and Melrose Abbey. Berwick seems a nice place, to revisit, but we needed to get on. There are 3 bridges in Berwick, and we crossed on the old on (so could not see it), next to the ugly one which cut off the view of the imposing one, the railway viaduct. The ugly one really is ugly, so when you gop there make sure this is one you cross on. After Berwick, the cycle track became very rough and we walked our bikes over a couple of miles of grassland. Finally to a campsite next to a superb beach. I forgot to mention that we were now in England, in Northumberland, which is a superbly beautiful county.
We worked our way south through coastal Northumberland. At a certain point, a sharp crack signalled a spoke had gone on my (Tom's) back wheel, which immediately bucked and would no longer turn without rubbing. After some manipulation, got it going well enough, and went on. Later, in Amble, went to en excellent bike shop, which fixed it up, replaced that spoke and some other dodgy ones and re-aligned the wheel. Rural Northumberland also came up with a pub with maybe the best fish and chips we have had (the beer was fine as well). Urban Northumberland, which is probably Tyne and Wear now, came up with a beautiful campsite that the local council had let become run down and are now selling it to a holiday company who will close it down as a campsite. We had contrasted travel between industrial and lovely seaside. Through Whitley Bay, a grand resort, to the mouth of the river Tyne, where we took a ferry to South Shields and one of the best campsites we have had. Then on to Stockton, where are now, much of this on cycle paths made along old railways that are great ot cycle along; trains may go up hill, but they do not go up hill steeply!
Hope to report on the next bit soon. We are not going to go along the North Yorkshire coast to Whitby, then on the Scarborough. Expecting this bit to be very hilly, a bit like Norway was.
Monday, August 15, 2011
sorry about time lag .... now in Edinburgh
We last wrote when we were in Elgin, East of Inverness. That was more than a week ago, and we owe apologies for this time lag. That is, assuming anyone is still visiting this blog, and we hope you are!
We actually wrote the last bit on the B&B in Elgin. We then went to a shop- with lots of different whiskies and made limited purchases. Then to see Elgin cathedral, which like many in Scotland is a ruin. In this case only partly because of the Reformation, because someone called the Wolf of Bedenough burnt it down in the middle ages when he had disagreement with the bishop, who had excommunicated him. The we went on East along the Moray coast, partly on a former railway made into a cycle track. It is nice to have these, if the surface is good enough. The trains could not climb very steep gradients! And neither can we. After a stop at a campsite, we got to Banff and went to see a stately home, Duff house, then on a rough road past an old bridge and on. There were a few houses on the rough road and as we passed one window we were offered lemon barley to drink and a nice chat. We were told that the people of Banff and the town on the opposite valley McDuff did not get on, so the McDuffs removed the clock face from the town clock facing Banff. Well I suppose they could have done worse. By this time it was raining, and I was tired and we had to get on for somewhere to stay. Comes a notice by the wayside about a campsite we had not noticed on the map. It said "cyclists this way", so we did. It had a little bothy and kitchen for cyclists. A relief that we didn't have to put the tent up in the pelting rain.
The next day took us to Aberdeen. On roads to Maud and then another old railway, which started fine, but the surface became progressively worse. After we both had fallen off (no damage, to us or bikes) we got back on ordinary roads. My (Katherine) fall was a nice soft landing in a bed of nettles but fortunately I was covered from head to foot and finger tips in waterproof clothing, so the nettles did no harm. We phoned a pub in Aberdeen doing B&B and went there. Nice to be in a pub when one arrives..... Also we found we could turn the radiators on, so could get belongings dry.
From Aberdeen to Stonehaven. Not sure why this took so long; it is not far, but we camped there, had aa swim in a heated outdoor salt water swimming pool. It was rather good for tired muscles, then an excellent fish-based supper in a pub and continued the next day, visiting Dunnottar castle to start with. As most castles it was in ruins, mainly from Cromwell's bombardment because he believed that the Scottish Crown Jewels were there. They had been but were actually smuggled out and hidden in a church. That day took us to Arbroath, famous for its "smokies", (a type of smoked haddock) which are indeed delicious. We arrived late because the place we hoped to stay at no longer existed and stopped a couple to ask the way to any B&Bs or hotels. They offered to let us put up our tent on their lawn which we accepted. They were incredibly kind, giving us a flask of tea and toast, as well as the use of their bathroom. The next day on to Dundee, after trying to visit a museum of Pictish stones and finding it shut, and visiting Arbroath abbey. Historical people among you might like to look up the declaration of Arbroath. This was another seriously wet day though it did let off for a while when we got to Dundee. The route into Dundee went next to a railway and the Canoustie Golf course. By this point it had rained so much that the golf course had lakes instead of puddles and deep puddles on the cycle path that one approached at speed and then free wheeled through with your legs up. Tom said it had stopped raining when we got to Dundee and indeed it had. But our accommodation was up a long very steep hill and it pelted down as we pushed up. Went to the contemporary arts centre, but nothing much so late, so just a drink.
From Dundee, over the Tay Bridge which has a cycleway down the middle, between the two traffic flows. Finding this was almost impossible, but not quite impossible because you had to go up in a lift and there were road works surrounding the lift. We had to shout up to workmen on the bridge to find out how to get to it. The other side, got onto the correct route with no problem. It took us through a beautiful forest, Tentsmuir forest, and on to St Andrews. The route in went past golf courses and then one golf shop after another. Spent little time there, and on, now in the rain again as we went on to Falkland. This bit was (variably) wet and quite tough. By this time, rain had led to very full rivers, with impressive waterfalls, and sometimes water running in streams down the road and sometimes bits of road under water altogether. Falkland was camping in a very wet apple orchard. Our anti-midge veils came in useful.
Next day to Edinburgh. Over some high hills, so should have had good views, It chose to rain that day when we crossed the high ground, not before and not after. Over th Forth Bridge and into Edinburgh to another campsite which is where we are now. The ground is waterlogged and turning to mud, though thankfully today has been (almost) dry, so things are improving.
A couple of days in Edinburgh, not cycling but going in by bus for the festival. We have been to a Korean version of The Tempest (a mixture of dance and opera) and a Chinese version of King Lear (Beijing opera style). Also to a moving dance about Altzeimer's, some early music and a very good a capella choir recital and a full choral church service which included an interesting sermon by a doctor on a theme on spirituality and health and also Haydn's St Nicolas Mass with choir and orchestra. And just wandering around; the place is quite extraordinary during the festival and it takes at least a day to come to terms with finding fringe events; we had a day and a half!
Tomorrow we move on to Roslyn, the church having become even more famous after the Da Vinci Code. Judging by the entry price they are cashing in on this.
We actually wrote the last bit on the B&B in Elgin. We then went to a shop- with lots of different whiskies and made limited purchases. Then to see Elgin cathedral, which like many in Scotland is a ruin. In this case only partly because of the Reformation, because someone called the Wolf of Bedenough burnt it down in the middle ages when he had disagreement with the bishop, who had excommunicated him. The we went on East along the Moray coast, partly on a former railway made into a cycle track. It is nice to have these, if the surface is good enough. The trains could not climb very steep gradients! And neither can we. After a stop at a campsite, we got to Banff and went to see a stately home, Duff house, then on a rough road past an old bridge and on. There were a few houses on the rough road and as we passed one window we were offered lemon barley to drink and a nice chat. We were told that the people of Banff and the town on the opposite valley McDuff did not get on, so the McDuffs removed the clock face from the town clock facing Banff. Well I suppose they could have done worse. By this time it was raining, and I was tired and we had to get on for somewhere to stay. Comes a notice by the wayside about a campsite we had not noticed on the map. It said "cyclists this way", so we did. It had a little bothy and kitchen for cyclists. A relief that we didn't have to put the tent up in the pelting rain.
The next day took us to Aberdeen. On roads to Maud and then another old railway, which started fine, but the surface became progressively worse. After we both had fallen off (no damage, to us or bikes) we got back on ordinary roads. My (Katherine) fall was a nice soft landing in a bed of nettles but fortunately I was covered from head to foot and finger tips in waterproof clothing, so the nettles did no harm. We phoned a pub in Aberdeen doing B&B and went there. Nice to be in a pub when one arrives..... Also we found we could turn the radiators on, so could get belongings dry.
From Aberdeen to Stonehaven. Not sure why this took so long; it is not far, but we camped there, had aa swim in a heated outdoor salt water swimming pool. It was rather good for tired muscles, then an excellent fish-based supper in a pub and continued the next day, visiting Dunnottar castle to start with. As most castles it was in ruins, mainly from Cromwell's bombardment because he believed that the Scottish Crown Jewels were there. They had been but were actually smuggled out and hidden in a church. That day took us to Arbroath, famous for its "smokies", (a type of smoked haddock) which are indeed delicious. We arrived late because the place we hoped to stay at no longer existed and stopped a couple to ask the way to any B&Bs or hotels. They offered to let us put up our tent on their lawn which we accepted. They were incredibly kind, giving us a flask of tea and toast, as well as the use of their bathroom. The next day on to Dundee, after trying to visit a museum of Pictish stones and finding it shut, and visiting Arbroath abbey. Historical people among you might like to look up the declaration of Arbroath. This was another seriously wet day though it did let off for a while when we got to Dundee. The route into Dundee went next to a railway and the Canoustie Golf course. By this point it had rained so much that the golf course had lakes instead of puddles and deep puddles on the cycle path that one approached at speed and then free wheeled through with your legs up. Tom said it had stopped raining when we got to Dundee and indeed it had. But our accommodation was up a long very steep hill and it pelted down as we pushed up. Went to the contemporary arts centre, but nothing much so late, so just a drink.
From Dundee, over the Tay Bridge which has a cycleway down the middle, between the two traffic flows. Finding this was almost impossible, but not quite impossible because you had to go up in a lift and there were road works surrounding the lift. We had to shout up to workmen on the bridge to find out how to get to it. The other side, got onto the correct route with no problem. It took us through a beautiful forest, Tentsmuir forest, and on to St Andrews. The route in went past golf courses and then one golf shop after another. Spent little time there, and on, now in the rain again as we went on to Falkland. This bit was (variably) wet and quite tough. By this time, rain had led to very full rivers, with impressive waterfalls, and sometimes water running in streams down the road and sometimes bits of road under water altogether. Falkland was camping in a very wet apple orchard. Our anti-midge veils came in useful.
Next day to Edinburgh. Over some high hills, so should have had good views, It chose to rain that day when we crossed the high ground, not before and not after. Over th Forth Bridge and into Edinburgh to another campsite which is where we are now. The ground is waterlogged and turning to mud, though thankfully today has been (almost) dry, so things are improving.
A couple of days in Edinburgh, not cycling but going in by bus for the festival. We have been to a Korean version of The Tempest (a mixture of dance and opera) and a Chinese version of King Lear (Beijing opera style). Also to a moving dance about Altzeimer's, some early music and a very good a capella choir recital and a full choral church service which included an interesting sermon by a doctor on a theme on spirituality and health and also Haydn's St Nicolas Mass with choir and orchestra. And just wandering around; the place is quite extraordinary during the festival and it takes at least a day to come to terms with finding fringe events; we had a day and a half!
Tomorrow we move on to Roslyn, the church having become even more famous after the Da Vinci Code. Judging by the entry price they are cashing in on this.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)